Good use of an old favorite

Written by on January 18, 2012 in Baltimore Bites, Featured - No comments

A hard act to follow.

The words might have been written for stage performers, but over the years, they’ve been applied to just about everyone in every situation: from co-workers to partners in relationship.

Eastern House, that venerable and much-loved establishment on Eastern Avenue, was a hard act to follow. For years, the family-owned restaurant served up not just Greek food but meatloaf, seafood, salads and more. Everyone loved it, and it was a rare day you couldn’t come in and find a good crowd settling in for the oyster stew, peasant salad and more.

Then it closed and became that cliched act that nobody could follow. Certainly, there were attempts, but they didn’t take hold.

But these days, there’s a new chef in town. K&D Restaurant has taken over the premises at 3706 Eastern Avenue, brightened up the decor (although you won’t forget you’re at the former Eastern House as the layout hasn’t changed much) and is serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a Honduran accent.

We started off with chips and salsa and then moved right into entree territory. If you’re in the mood to linger, though, K&D certainly offers plenty of options to munch on while you’re perusing the menu. Nachos, wings, taquitos, ceviche, fried plantain, tamales, pupusas — in a wide range of prices ($2 to $12.95, with items in the $6 and $8 range dominating).

Those who aren’t familiar with Spanish will be fine — the menu includes translations. For example: Taquitos dorados (Crispy corn taquitos stuffed with chicken or beef, served with lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream and guacamole). You really can’t go wrong.

The mariscada, soup with lobster, shrimp, clams and scallops, was one of the pricier items on the entree menu at $19.95, but one of the most beautiful and flavorful as well. A huge lobster claw was positioned in the center of the soup bowl, and the entire concoction was spicy and studded with some very fresh seafood.

The second entree, carne asada con tajadas, was a well-seasoned concoction of marinated steak served with fried sliced green bananas, cabbage and pico de gallo. The concept might surprise longtime Eastern House patrons, but the taste can win them over.

Entrees are divided into Mariscos/Seafood, Carnes/Steak, Pollo/Chicken, and more. Some entrees guaranteed to grab interest are langosta rellena (one lobster stuffed with sauteed shrimp for $25.75), paella ($19.95), pollo en mole (chicken breast in Mexican brown sauce) and more. Carry-out is available, too, something else done by Eastern House.

All things considered, it’s a good re-use of premises once used by a favorite on the Avenue. Perhaps the only harder act to follow is a few blocks toward downtown: Haussners.

by Mary Helen Sprecher

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