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That’s why Fells Point has needed a place like Hungry Andy’s for a long time. Whether it’s before or after your night in the neighborhood gin mills, you can stoke up with mounds of fries and pit sandwiches, or burgers, or wings, or barbecue, or massive breakfast sandwiches served on sub rolls. And that’s just the first page of the menu.
Hungry Andy's Hot Wings
Or a salad. We tried Andy’s version of a caprese salad, only since Andy’s is a carryout for unapologetic carnivores, crisp bacon took the place of mozzarella along with the tomato and basil.
The tomatoes were ripe, the basil was fresh and green, and the bacon was delicious, smoky and crisp, even after sitting atop the salad for the ten-minute drive back to the office from Fells Point. The balsamic vinaigrette dressing came on the side. “The bacon was definitely the high point,” said Chad, “but it was a good salad all the way around.”
After the salads, which are good and made fresh, there is absolutely nothing on the menu that is good for you, and that’s as it should be. And the fresh-cut fries are worth a couple of years off your life.
The crab fries ($2.83) are cooked crisp and liberally dusted with Old Bay. Delicious. The sweet potato fries ($3.30) were a little soggy after the ride, but they were good. A little extra time in the fryer and a little Old Bay would make them awesome. The regular fries were fine too. Traditionalists will like them.
Also available are some real barfly essentials: chili fries, chili and cheese fries, gravy fries, gravy and Cheez Whiz fries, you name it, all needful things after a hard night out.
The chicken wings ($6.84 for eight, $9.20 for 12, and so on) were fine. Flavors available are mild, hot, Old Bay, honey teriyaki, honey mustard, sweet BBQ, garlic butter, extra hot and charbroiled. We ordered the extra hot, and they were indeed quite hot. The wings come with celery and blue cheese or ranch dressing.
The Dagwood pita wrap ($6.84) is an enormous serving of pit beef, pit turkey and ham stuffed in a pita with lettuce, tomatoes, green peppers, cheese and mayo. Mayo on a pita, you say? It works here, honestly it does.
The pit turkey sandwich ($5.90) comes on a white or wheat kaiser roll, your choice, with a nice sharp barbecue sauce, plenty of horseradish, onion and mayo. The turkey is real, not rolled, and dry rubbed with plenty of pepper and other spices. It’s very good.
We did not try the array of Philly cheese steaks, with or without Whiz, but judging by the menu they’re authentic–lettuce, tomato, fried onion and mayo are by request only. Purists will order only the meat and the Whiz, and that’s how it should be.
Also available are ribs, fried chicken and a full complement of burgers, even a DIY burger where you can choose your toppings from egg, ham, turkey, bacon, cream cheese, jalapeños, onion rings, musbrooms and homemade barbecue.
Hungry Andy’s, 629 S. Broadway near Aliceanna, is open Sundays through Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., and Thursdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m.-”later.” We’re guessing that has something to do with bar-closing time.
Call 410-558-1869 to order; delivery available in Fells Point. Visa and Mastercard accepted.
by Jacqueline Watts