Farid Bishara Salloum is owner of Baba’s Mediterranean Kitchen in Locust Point. Actually, though, he prefers the title CFO: Chief Falafel Officer. “Anyone can be an owner,” he says with a grin. “But how many people do you know who can make falafel? One!”
Salloum’s affable disposition has as much to do with the popularity of the café as, yes, his falafel skills. He greets many regulars by name, making first-timers (like us) wish we lived in the neighborhood, too. (Hey, there’s a house for sale right across the street…)
Passersby are welcomed in by cheerful blue awnings with an olive-branch motif—symbolic of peace and friendship, as well as Middle Eastern eats—and by a small but light-filled room with butcher-block tables, hanging lanterns and an open kitchen whose counter boasts colorful Mediterranean tile designs. Table seating isn’t plentiful, but customers can also dine at the counter or carry out.
Baba’s “CFO” is the son of Palestinian immigrants; his late father (“baba” in Arabic) ran a popular café in Syracuse, NY. While Salloum senior’s eatery specialized in ice cream, his son’s longtime dream was a place that would feature the foods of his family’s homeland and surrounding countries. Therefore his menu features not only Middle Eastern standards such as falafel and kabobs, but spankopita (Greek), couscous (Turkey) and caprese salad (Italy), and well as pita pizzas whose toppings span the region. Vegetarians are especially well cared-for, as are the gluten-sensitive, who will especially appreciate the quinoa tabbouleh salad with diced tomatoes, onions, mint and chopped parsley.
The Med-ley ($7) is a good place to start; the vegetarian combination platter of dolmas, falafel, spanakopita, hummus and olives features the familiar standards, but in versions that are much more flavorful, authentic, and homemade than one usually finds. The dolmas, for instance, are made with grape leaves that are supple and have some snap, and a tasty, non-slimy rice filling. The hummus has a pleasant lemony bite and just the right amount of garlic, and the falafel—browned chickpea balls that are parsley-green inside and drizzled with tahini—are tangy and (unlike most of their ilk) not too dried-out. Best of all are the plump spanakopita triangles, made with feathery-light, distinctly buttery phyllo layers. If I have to make a criticism, I’ll just say that I prefer my pita warm.
The falafel, kebabs and tahini-topped burgers are available tucked inside a pita or on a bed of rice; for a few extra dollars you can add a serving of hummus and a house salad. The most expensive choice is the lamb kabob platter ($11.50), which I ordered in a pita. The lamb chunks had been expertly marinated, and were grilled medium-rare, but were so chewy that eating them as a sandwich was a challenge. Deconstructed, and spread with a yogurt and dill mixture called ebnee, they still required a bit of work, but were well worth it.
My husband had pit(z)a on his mind, until he spotted the shrimp ouzo special on Baba’s chalkboard. At $6, the shrimp weren’t exactly jumbo, but tasted fresh and their chopped tomato and herb mixture was subtly laced with ouzo’s distinctive licorice perfume.
The more unusual of the two desserts offered, a pastry topped with shredded phyllo, resembled cheesecake, but less sweet and more, well, cheesy. It was fine, but nothing could have topped the three two-bite pieces of baklava, each with different types of nuts. I have never had baklava so delicate (no tough, honey-sodden bullets here) and so delightfully buttery. They showed this charming café’s characteristic finesse. Baba Salloum would surely be pleased with his namesake.

Baba’s Mediterranean Kitchen
745 E. Fort Ave.
Open: Lunch & dinner Tues.-Sun.
Phone: 410-727-7482 (PITA)
Prices: Appetizers $4-$7, entrees $6-$11.50

The Latest Dish…
The Dogwood in Hampden has been closed since last summer, but never really went out of business. In fact, it has steadily maintained that it would reopen this year. This statement was pooh-poohed by many foodies; after all, hadn’t the chef and most of the staff already moved on to other ventures? However, a reopening date has now been set, so it looks like it’s true: The Dogwood will be back in business as of tomorrow. If you get there before I do, let me know how they’re doing!

—by Lynn Williams
(maindish@baltimoreguide.com) maindish (at) baltimoreguide (dot) com